Fonte: drink coffee in your Armani suit

At Fonté Cafe & Wine Bar, they don’t like to compromise. Starting with the coffee, which is roasted for the likes of Michael Mina, Daniel Boulud, the Four Seasons and Wynn Hotels, Fonte aims to deliver great taste wrapped in an elegant experience.

The cafe is situated appropriately in Seattle’s new Four Seasons Hotel, at street level near Pike Place Market. The coffee machine is a Ferrari (owner Paul Odom had it custom built in the Netherlands), the lighting is just right and a wall-sized photo of the roastery reminds you that Fonte is a coffee company.

Garde manger at Fonte

But Fonte looks more like a European bistro than a Seattle coffee house. Lots of leather, marble and wrought iron with wood accents contribute to a natural-elegant habitat. The newly-installed garde manger (open food prep station) overflows with artisan meats, cheeses and breads. It is flanked by an impressive selection of wines, beers and liquors (happy hours 5-6:30pm daily).

The menu was designed by 2010 James Beard Award Winner, Chef Jason Wilson of Crush Restaurant (Best Chef, Northwest). Breakfast (served all day) covers everything from oatmeal to omelets, then there are house baked sandwiches, meat & cheese plates, and artisan pizzas comprising the rest of the menu.

It’s all pretty damn good, and full of nice culinary surprises. Service can be indifferent, but it’s frequently exotic and interesting.

For the price, Fonte is terrific value. Worth a try.

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Fonté Cafe & Wine Bar
1321 First Avenue
Seattle, WA 98101

Phone:
(206) 777-6193

Hours of Operation:
Tuesday – Saturday: 7AM to 10PM
Sunday & Monday: 7AM to 9PM
Happy Hour: Monday – Friday: 5PM to 6:30PM

On Happiness

Happiness comes when your work and words are of benefit to yourself and others. (Buddha)

Happiness is nothing more than good health and a bad memory. (Albert Schweitzer)

The Grand essentials of happiness are: something to do, something to love, and something to hope for. (AK Chalmers)

That man is richest whose pleasures are cheapest. (Thoreau)


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For several years, I have been contemplating the concept of “personal sustainability” – how to live our lives in balance with the natural systems that created and sustain us. I have come to realize that sustainability, at the personal level, is very similar to a much more familiar concept: happiness.

Happiness is neither easily defined nor easily achieved. But, when approached from the prism of sustainability, it can be systematically sought. Like sustainability, we may never fully achieve happiness, but by pursuing it daily, with care and discipline, in time we can become healthier, wiser, better… happier.

I tend to take a “left brain” approach to happiness, in contrast to my friend and sounding board Ed Essey, whose brilliant publication aphorism and egoism charts a more spiritual path.

In future posts I will describe some life experiments with “happiness training” that you might find interesting.

Seven Arguments Against Local, Real Food … and Seven Answers

At a recent panel discussion I attempted to stir up some controversy and eschew complacency about the local food economy. It led to a thoughtful and lively debate. The event was called “Eat Local Now!” and was sponsored by Sustainable Cascadia and BALLE, the Business Alliance for Local Living Economies. These are just a few talking points I used. Feel free to contact me for further details.

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Here are some of the criticisms of local food that I have encountered while managing a consumer nonprofit and working inside the food & agriculture business for many years. Concerns come from industry, confused and cash-strapped consumers, and even environmentalists.

1.    Small, family farms are too resource intensive, too inefficient.

Discussion: The application of industrial principles to farming creates much greater efficiencies in growing, processing, storing, transporting, and distributed food than small, local farms… and these advantages are increasing as technology advances.

Answers:
(a) Read about Joel Salatin of Polyface Farms in Virginia – using permaculture, he has created a tremendously efficient farm by harnessing the power of nature.
(b) Banding together as small businesses, we could create our own local economies of scale, with collective processing facilities, distribution systems, and supply chain software to connect farmers and buyers. Some of this is beginning to happen, but businesses need to step into this space.
(c) We need to relearn how to be efficient on the farm without synthetic chemicals, and use modern science to advance natural farming.

2.    Natural farming leads to a lot of food waste.

Discussion: Chemicals prevent insect damage, make foods look “perfect,” preserve them during transport. Packaging allows food to be stored without spoilage. The corporate motto of Tetra Pak, the world’s largest packager of liquid foods in cartons, is “We make food safe and available, everywhere.”

Answers:
(a) Let’s rethink waste. Food waste should be returned to the soil in homes, municipalities, and farms. “There is no waste in nature.”
(b) Also, let’s rethink food. If it’s not grown in living soil, if it’s tainted with hormones and pesticides, if it’s sterilized and chemically preserved in a package, it’s not food.

3.    It costs too much.

Discussion: There is a large disparity in cost between conventional and local/natural/organic food. This is unfair especially to lower income consumers. Local food is “elitist.”

Answers:
(a) Industrial food is cheap partly because we have subsidized it. If we, as a society, provided the same billions of dollars of research, farming subsidies, low-cost water rights, and political influence to local farming that we have given to industrial food systems, local farming could become much more efficient and prices would come down. It is a matter of setting public priorities.
(b) Work together to create our own economies of scale.
(c) Use technology to expand the market for local food.
(d) Spending more on food is not necessarily a bad thing if you consider the quality of the food you are getting. Eating well makes one healthy, so spending more on it may reduce the medical costs in the long run, not to mention the happiness that comes with it. (Thanks Mei, for this comment.)

4.    Eating locally is not much fun in January.

Discussion: How many of us would like to give up coffee, chocolate and bananas? We need variety in our diet to remain healthy, which means foods need to be imported, especially in the off-seasons.

Answers:
(a) Eating seasonally connects us with the land (“terroir”) and is probably healthy for us. Anticipating the next food to come in season is spiritually fulfilling.
(b) Instant gratification is not necessarily a societal value.
(c) It doesn’t take much technology to extend the seasons for many foods around here – e.g., greens all year.
(d) It also depends on your location – people have moved into places where humans are not supposed to be (Las Vegas, the fastest growing city).
(e) Our suggestion is that our food should be “mostly local” but not necessarily 100% local. Artisan foods (say, a lovely Basque sheep cheese) may make perfect sense on a menu as a complement to local produce and meats. Many of these exported hand-crafted products have supported families and communities for many generations, while bringing culinary pleasure to their customers.

5.    Shopping for local, natural foods is too hard.

Discussion: We don’t have much time, and supermarkets are so convenient. It’s very difficult / confusing to figure out what’s local & natural.

Answers:
(a) The food industry spends billions trying to keep us from knowing where our food comes from and how it’s made. Fight for labeling.
(b) Shop at trusted vendors and get to know them.
(c) Kill your TV. Use the extra time to reconnect with your food.
(d) Shop direct with farmers, CSA, Co-ops, family markets, etc.
(e) Keep a garden. This is a good solution to the cost problem, too.

6.    Local farming endangers animal habitat.

Discussion: Intensive agriculture is very land efficient – lots of calories per acre. On a global basis, this allows us to feed our people while preserving land for animal habitat. A switch to local farming would lead to encroachment upon wild areas.

Answers:
(a) Human habitat is endangered. We need to establish public policy for our own protection, too.
(b) The food industry should focus on efficiently growing natural food, mostly locally. Not just getting more calories per acre.
(c) Again, it’s a matter of public priorities. What do we want for our society?

7.    The economic model is unsustainable; local farms can’t compete.

Discussion: Americans spend only 9% of their income on food, compared with 20% in Japan and 17% in Europe. This is mainly because of the acceptance of industrialized and imported of foods. As free trade grows, small family farms are disappearing worldwide, unable to compete with efficient corporate farms.

Answers:
(a) “Don’t eat anything that your great grandmother wouldn’t recognize as food.” – Michael Pollan.
(b) Find ways to empower consumers to chose local food.
(c) Large corporations can begin to source more locally. Example: $400 million Wal-Mart program announced in summer 2008.
(d) Rethink free trade in food.
(e) As a society, increase our focus on local farming of real food and make it stronger, every day.

Further Information:

Subscribe to a wonderful weekly podcast produced by Jon Steinman from his base in rural British Columbia  – “Deconstructing Dinner.”  http://kootenaycoopradio.com/deconstructingdinner/

festivore Awards

Not long ago, I devised a system of thinking about food and how it relates to natural lifestyle – I call it “festivore.”  Click here to find out if you are a festivore. I developed a rating system for restaurants and food shops based on the principles of the fourth element of sustainability. Here is how it works:

There are three levels of recognition in festivore

  • LEVEL 1: Being one of the few selected for inclusion in the festivore guide (most restaurants do not qualify)
  • LEVEL 2: Category Awards for good food, affordability, great places, and sustainable business practices (see below)
  • LEVEL 3: festivore CHOICE

Orangefestivore CHOICE… our favorite restaurants

Our favorite places are designated festivore CHOICE, chosen for excellence in the most critical factors. Only a small fraction of restaurants in the region qualify (generally fewer than 1%). Culinary pleasure is the first criterion! Then, performance in 8 sustainability categories is considered (see Category Awards below). The featured restaurants on our home page and our city pages are drawn from this pool of top performers.

Our “perfect restaurant” serves delicious food made from plants & animals that are naturally raised, sustainably harvested, or foraged. The preparations are healthy, with ingredients tending to lower on the food chain. The meal is affordable, and most of the restaurant’s products & services are sourced locally. The business is fair to employees and suppliers, respectful of nature, conserves resources and promotes community. Finally, the restaurant is a natural habitat, relaxing and restorative, and is a connector of people.

CATEGORY AWARDS

We give special recognition to restaurants that do a great job in eight specific aspects of sustainable dining:

  • the food is natural / organic (real food) and healthy / low on the food chain (low food)
  • the cost is affordable, with cheap eats or special deals
  • the place is a natural habitat and a third place (connecting people), and
  • the business is local and green (eco-friendly and fair)

These eight Category Awards are described below (in alphabetical order):

Official_yellow a third place

These are places that are relaxing, fun, comfortable, and friendly. They are “third places” (the third place in your life is the one after “home” and “work,” where you hang out and connect with others). Third places are accommodating of a variety of the social needs of their patrons (kids, couples on a date, singles, seniors, etc.). They offer great personal service and they build community.

Black cheap eats

First we should say that, through industrialization, we have driven down the cost of food so fiercely, that in some cases it is no longer “food.” We can continue to drive down food cost, at the expense of the environment, animal rights, good taste and human health… but does it make sense to stay on this path?

Although its efficiency/cost is improving too, real food is often more expensive to produce than industrial food – and much better for our bodies and for nature. Yet, the vast majority of us have limited resources and we need to save money wherever we can. So, we recognize places that are affordable on a limited budget (and inexpensive enough to allow the average consumer to dine there frequently) with the “cheap eats” award. See additional comments on Cost Ratings in the sidebar.

However, if a restaurant compromises health, environment, and taste in an effort to offer cheap food, it won’t be included in festivore.

Official_green deep green

Elements of green behavior that we consider include:

  • zero waste: reduce, reuse, recycle, compost
  • energy reduction
  • habitat protection (land, air, and waters)
  • animal welfare
  • green sourcing
  • fairness to employees & suppliers
  • support of walking, biking & transit
  • building community

Many festivore restaurants are now engaged in some green practices (great!). Restaurants recognized with the “deep green” category award are making extraordinary efforts in this area.

Readings:

Official_purple happy hours (affordability)

Industrial food may be lacking in culinary pleasure and it may be unhealthy, but it has one big advantage… it is cheap. “Real food,” prepared well, is wonderful but can be expensive… basically inaccessible to a large segment of the population.

At festivore we give special recognition to restaurants that offer cheap eats, but not all food formats have a low enough cost basis to achieve this. Fortunately, some higher-priced restaurants offer affordable plates via a “happy hour menu,” smaller portions at reduced prices, or other special arrangements. This is great news for people seeking real food in a nice environment, if we are willing to accommodate the special terms of the deal (such as dining early or late, on certain days, or eating less). If these offerings are substantial, healthful and frequent enough, the restaurant may receive the “special deals” category award. In any case, these deals can be found with our happy hour food tag in the Service column in the Advanced Search.

In addition to the cost benefits, smaller portions promote nutritional variety and give the consumer the option to eat less (avoid overeating)… and perhaps dine out more often.

Note that if the food quality is compromised or the scope of the offering is insignificant, the restaurant will not receive this recognition.

Check the restaurant’s web site (listed on our restaurant page) for menu details and hours. See additional comments on Cost Ratings in the sidebar.

Official_blue low food

In festivore, the term “low food” is about maintaining balanced nutrition, while minimizing the environmental “footprint” of the meal. Fortunately, both of these can be accomplished in large part by eating lower on the food chain most of the time.

That includes eating mostly plants, using animal proteins as ingredients rather than main courses. When eating fish, staying low on the food chain minimizes your intake of toxins that bioaccumulate in larger fish, and it can reduce pressure on the marine environment. Restaurants that make it easy to “eat low” receive our recognition.

variety: In order to get the full complement of micronutrients, we need to consume a wide variety of colorful fruits and vegetables. We get pleasure in seeing the brilliant colors of a plate of nutritious food for a reason. Variety in other nutrients – proteins, fats, etc. is also beneficial.

portion size: Smaller portions allow the extent of variety of nutrients required for a healthy meal.

nutrient proportions: Meat, fish and starches are delicious ingredients, but leafy greens, other colorful vegetables and fruits should be the greater source of nutrition in a great meal.

mostly plants: “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.” In Michael Pollan’s book In Defense of Food, he reminds us that what we put in our mouths should be real food, eaten in moderation, and that our bodies are not built to handle too many animal products. Meat and dairy products should be embellishments rather than mainstay of our diets. Restaurants that respect this essential biological fact will score in this category.

seasonal and fresh: Our bodies are in tune with time and place, so foods taste better when they are locally grown and in season. Nutrient value (and flavor) are at their peak just after harvest. The best chefs often buy directly from farmers and they know the names of the people who grow their food. Many of them regularly visit the farms to be personally engaged in the farm-to-table process, just as the best winemakers carefully monitor their vineyards.

Readings:

Official_red mostly local

Festivore highlights restaurants that are “mostly local,” meaning that priority is given to known and trusted local vendors of produce, meats, and beverages. But realistically, many communities lack sufficient variety of foods in the winter to support a healthy diet. Rather than ask everyone to relocate to warm climates, we allow for reasonable supplementation with non-local ingredients… but we still expect our restaurants to pay homage to seasonality, even in winter.

Not every tasty product can be grown locally. Some obvious examples for Northern cities are coffee, chocolate, and bananas. We also recognize that an artisan food (say, a lovely Basque sheep cheese) may make perfect sense on a menu as a complement to local produce and meats. Many of these exported hand-crafted products have supported families and communities for many generations, while bringing culinary pleasure to their customers.

Local sourcing reduces transportation impacts, encourages sustainable agriculture, supports community and helps to maintain lively local economies. Eating seasonally gives a greater sense of time and place, which can have nutritional, social, and spiritual benefits, too. There’s something wonderful about waiting anxiously for a favorite food to come in season. See our post On Local Food in the FORUM on the sidebar.

We also encourage using local suppliers of other products (like equipment, packaging, disposibles, art, music, etc.) and services (like design, banking, insurance, etc.), where possible.

Official_brown natural habitat

The restaurant is a habitat for relaxing, socializing, and enjoying food. It should be pleasing to the eye, comfortable and convenient – appealing to all of the senses. How nature and the human element are brought into the space will determine success in this area. [Note: there are many paths to a great design and we enjoy the variety – as long as the principles of a natural human habitat are addressed.]

A habitat may be great because it inspires and stimulates the imagination, or perhaps it has a compelling history and unique features. Some designs simply “work” well – being perfectly appropriate to the setting, space & intent of the restaurant. Good management of sights, sounds, smells, temperature, fresh air, lack of clutter, etc. are important in a great design.

Humans like to feel a sense of “gravity” (stone, heavy beams, vaulted ceilings), which creates a feeling of comfort and security. We benefit from the use of natural, elemental materials and from nature being brought into the space (rocks, plants, sticks, flowers, trees, windows, skylights, gardens, decks, patios, sidewalks, terraces…). A human touch in the building and its contents is another aspect of nature (human nature) and can be seen in antiques and decorations of fine materials and workmanship, a well-worn floor, or a primitive but lovingly made artifact.

Readings:

Official_orange organic/real food

We look for produce grown in healthy living soil and animals raised naturally, on their proper food.

Ingredients should be mostly natural (with no chemical or genetic modifications), seasonal and local, wild or foraged, wherever reasonable. Great food starts with great ingredients. The best chefs understand and respect their linkage to the farm, the forest, and the oceans – and their role in our health and enjoyment of food. We appreciate chefs who allow the natural goodness of great ingredients to shine in their creations.

Note: we don’t require every single ingredient to be “certified organic,” but naturally-raised local foods should be the norm – within the constraints of the supply chain and menu. Organic certification has become a food industry process and is therefore subject to manipulation and may be inaccessible to many wonderful farmers who meet or exceed the original intent of the regulation. Some of the best farmers do not carry the “organic ” label – we need to make the effort to know where our food comes from.

Eat like a festivore!

As you approach the table for your next meal, here are some thoughts to consider. These ideas are gleaned from centuries of culinary tradition and natural science, and they embody the festivore’s natural passion to eat well, live long and enjoy life. (Click here to find out if you are a festivore.)

Prepare your mind & spirit

Clear your head: the table is no place for stress, anger, worry, or distraction; for festivores, mealtime is a respite from the cares of the day.

Be thankful: consider where the food came from; take a moment to appreciate the farmer, the fisher, the forager, and the cook.

Be mindful: consider the oceans, the land, the animals and the ecosystems that are the source of this food; are you comfortable that this meal was sourced in harmony with nature?

Stay pure; eat ”real food”: remember that your body’s “engine” is a myriad of biochemical pathways and it needs very specific fuels – no synthetic pesticides, hormones, GM foods, chemical modifications or additives have a healthy function in that engine; like sugar in the gas tank, they can cause big trouble.

Set the scene

Consider the setting: as often as possible, choose a natural place (at home, a peaceful patio, an historic place, relaxing restaurant, a garden, a shore, a farm). We do not eat standing up, in the car, or off of a plastic tray.

Bring in natural elements: plantings, wood, stone, water, fire, iron, copper, flowers, antiques, well-worn furnishings, old things, handmade things, art, soothing sounds.

Go for quality: splurge on tableware, beautiful & comfortable furniture, good music, furnishings, flowers… it’s a great way to respect your food and yourself.

Enjoy!

Eat only what you love: be an adventurous eater (you never know
what you might discover), but push aside mediocre foods; festivores vote with their forks… and vote for the good life.

Choose mainly “low food”: because our bodies are built to thrive on mainly plants, and because nature cannot support all of us constantly munching high on the food chain. (See my recent post on low food.)

Hydrate: taste the water (cool, not cold) and drink lots of it, before and/or during any eating or drinking.

Eat slowly: take the time to taste, enjoy, reflect on the food – this will naturally lead to taking smaller portions and more variety of color, taste, texture, and preparation… with terrific health benefits.

Use all your senses: admire the presentation of the food, note the aromas, taste with your whole mouth, and don’t deaden your taste buds with too much heat or cold, too much spice, or too much alcohol.

Share: the meal is a great opportunity for reconnecting to share moments, ideas, fun and food (but when you’re dining alone, take full advantage of the opportunity to focus on the food for maximum enjoyment of it!).

Bon appétit!

Links

The Fourth Element
US Green Building Council
EPA Industrial and Institutional Laundry Partnership

Dining Green (WBUR Boston: NPR)
Green Restaurant Association
The Vision: A Sustainable Restaurant
Sustainable Restaurant Dialog (San Diego)
The Chefs Collaborative

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